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| Jacket: SuitSupply FW 2020 half-canvassed jacket in F.lli Tallia di Delfino Super 130s wool. Shirt: Jantzen Tailor bespoke indigo chambray shirt - "fully hand-finished" |
The third part of the Jantzen Tailor handmade shirt review is here.
Let's cut to the chase: yes, it is worth the price (HKD 1,000 with fabric included). You cannot find a maker offering this level of finishing in HK. There are makers in Southern Italy offering handmade shirts at a similar price range - but with fewer handmade steps (see here), or makers that offer very beautifully finished handmade shirts for triple the price (see here). As for Hong Kong, China, Ascot Chang (see here) and Tai Pan Row (see here) can make handmade shirts, but HKD 1,000 would not get you anywhere at these two shops...
Before further ado, let's have some comparison shots - and let the photos do the talking.
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| Collar top-stitch density: Sannino wins |
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| Buttonhole: Jantzen explains that they deliberately chose the "suit buttonhole" way. It is certainly not the conventional way used by most handmade shirt makers. What do you think? |
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| Button attachment |
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| Button shank |
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| Collar attachment |
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| The underside of the French front. Note the stitch density. |
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| Bottom hem: note how the stitch density and hem width differ. Jantzen said they would further improve. |
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| Side gusset. |
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| Armhole. Despite the somewhat lower stitching density by Jantzen compared to the very meticulous work by Sannino, Jantzen's sleeve attachment is considered smooth and acceptable. |
Jantzen Tailor
https://www.jantzentailor.com/
Minimum order: one shirt (for handmade shirts)
Price range: HKD 300-400 for fully machine-made shirts using house-fabric, HKD 1,000 for fully hand-finished shirts using house-chambray
CMT service: Yes, on a case-by-case basis
Handmade options: Fully hand-finished shirt (roughly equivalent to some "20-step handmade" shirts from Italian makers)
Room D-E, 5th floor., On Lok Yuen Building, 25-27 Des Voeux Road Central, Hong Kong. tel/+852 2810-8080 or +852 2570-5901
Interesting post, Hong Kong tailor VS Italian tailor. Price and effectiveness, Hong Kong tailor won.
ReplyDeleteHand stitched collar and cuff density, Italian Tailor won.
Hand done button hole and button shank, same level.
Button quality, almost the same.
Arm hole hand sewn, same level.
How about the cutting and fitting? Actually, that will be the major part of bespoke tailor shirt! Whatever how high quality and workmanship, if the shirt doesn't fit well! All lips talking!
Thank you for sharing your custom shirt journal.
Hi Justin!
DeleteSannino shirt was done from copying the measurements off an existing shirt (I sent them a shirt by courier) with my personal feedback via email, and Jantzen shirt was done from copying the fit of the Sannino shirt - but Jantzen offered additional physical fitting on a semi-finished shirt.
As it could be unfair to compare them based on cutting and fit, I decided not to publish that information.
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