| [For the first part of this series, please follow the link to - My Ascot Chang Experience - Part I]  |
| A picture is said to worth a thousand words. Local children of traditional (Chinese) upbringing have most likely been taught the virtues of "living like a bee" via the rather unscientific tale of The Bee and the Butterfly. In this highly commercialised world of Classical Menswear, we literally need to work like a bee before we can wear like a butterfly - if even a very understated butterfly. |
The past weeks have been hectic weeks for @shirtingfantasy - mainly, mostly, and almost certainly because he has no financial journalist job to quit. Although money does not always buy quality, very often we need money to facilitate quality - when it comes to so-called "Classical Menswear", to make your style statement lasting (if not permanent) one often needs custom production and exclusive material in order to distinguish his garment from fast fashion.
A respected senior in @shirtingfantasy's workplace once said1:
"Men are after two things: love, and eternity".For men with a serious interest in menswear elegance - particularly in the British sense - he would likely wear heavyweight wool, not to drape well but mostly to last long; he would not wear a shirt made from Ne 300/2 x 300/2 Italian cotton, and would rather have a plain, matte Ne 100/2 x 100/2 poplin which would literally last years, and which allows him to replace the collar and cuffs when the need arises... eternity, is the key.
But we live in the 21st century.
We live in an age of excess. We live in the iGent era where online forums direct our taste. If we continued to buy menswear that would last and last long, the menswear industry could not survive. And in case the idea of a Golden or Record bale don't sell, then we need to be sold handwork - handpadded, handstitched, handwelted... you name it.
As a reader has recently asked about my experience with the Ascot Chang handstitched shirt, and they are indeed one of the few bespoke makers who offer bespoke handstitched shirts locally, it makes sense to cover this curious topic in this second part of my Ascot Chang series2.
First thing first, some photos (click to enlarge):
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| @shirtingfantasy's Ascot Chang handstitched shirt. Fabric: Bonfanti Tessuti "Ischia" twill su base voile in 140/2 x 140/2 WISICA Sea Island cotton. |
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| The pentagonal side gusset - handstitched, of course. The stitch density is not the highest in the world - but the nest stitching is rather pleasing to the eye - which is the whole purpose of applying handstitching in these areas anyway. Note the side seam is first sewn by machine and decorated with handstitching, whereas the bottom hem is rolled and stitched by hand only. |
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| Back yoke seam. Handstitching is again very evident. Note that I did not ask for a "gathered" effect at the seam so the seam was flat and neat. I ruffled the shirt a little to make the stitching more evident under non-professional lighting. More on the topic of gathered sleevehead/ back yoke seam/ in text. |
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| The 4 mm MOP option. At Ascot Chang it is either standard thin MOP or this 4 mm MOP - nothing in-between. Then, of course, one is free to supply his own buttons. |
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| The reverse (wrong) side of the buttonhole. The handstitching is evident. |
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| While some Italian makers offer different "packages" (e.g. 8-step, 12-step, 25-step) for their handmade shirts, the standard handstitched shirt from Ascot Chang includes handstitching of the long seams by default. If one looks at the stitch density, it looks very much like the pick stitching applied to suit jackets. |
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| The collar and sleeves are attached by hand, as expected - these are the basal minimum of "handmade" shirt anyway. |
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| On closer inspection, this sleeve attachment looks a bit like that of suit jackets. |
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| Finally, the collar. Decorative stitching on the collar alla Camiceria Matuozzo (style). See this photo. |
As may be seen, the chief strengths of the Ascot Chang handstitched shirt include:
- Neat work: the decorative stitching quality is on par with the Matuozzo standard
- Local availability
- Good fit: as it normally starts from already perfected bespoke shirt patterns at the store
Notwithstanding, there are reasons why this experience does NOT replace a proper handstitched shirt made in Italy (where this kind of product has relatively high availability and pockets of low-wage workforce in Southern Italy makes this level of handwork economically viable):
- The Italian fit: as explained earlier, Italian makers specialize in making shirts that look "3D"; and by sacrificing a scrupulously clean fit at the back, Italian shirts are comfortable
- A plethora of options: there are many, many makers offering handstitched shirts, and more than a couple of them are willing to take international orders, thanks to the Internet
- The Made-in-(Insert Name of Country) romance: let's admit it, 100Hands call themselves "100Hands Amsterdam" and not "100Hands India" despite their 100% Indian production, and Southern Italy isn't the richest part of the nation to say the least...
Before ending this photo-heavy post, it is essential to clarify about the differing terminology used:
Ascot Chang and UK terminology
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Italian maker terminology
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Handmade shirt (fabric is cut by hand, fusing or attachment of interlining is done by hand, and sewing is by a skilled worker at the sewing machine)
Example:
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Machine-made shirt
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Handstitched shirt
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Handmade shirt (e.g. shirt with 8-step handmade)
Example:
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Until then, goodbye!
Footnote:
[1] That senior himself has (only) one wife and is a rather austere gentleman.
[2] The actual reason, however, is hectic work schedule and hectic store schedule during the Golden Week. @shirtingfantasy's friend would like to avoid going to the overwhelmed Elements mall so the fitting has not yet been completed.
Shop information:
Ascot Chang
https://www.ascotchang.com/
Minimum order: three shirts
Price range: HKD 2,195+ for Thomas Mason fabric
CMT service: Yes. HKD 1,200 - 2,000 (depends on yarn count of fabric).
Handmade option: Yes. Surcharge of HKD 1,150, including handmade buttonholes, hand-attached collar and sleeves, long seams side gusset. Thick (4 mm) MOP buttons require an extra charge.
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