Xibao - TGC - OctTenth: the legendary OEM maker behind your favourite Chinese handwelted shoes

A Norwegian apron, non-split toe, five-eyelet Derby from Xibao - TGC - OctTenth

Let's make this clear first: in this post, I am not going to name any of the brands that are using the Xibao - TGC - OctTenth factory as their maker. Not only because none of these purported commercial relationships has been formally acknowledged, but also because disrupting these relationships would lead to, in @shirtingfantasy's opinion, a very negative impact on the overall very promising trend of style and quality improvement. 

For those who don't already who Xibao is:

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Boots #boots #mensdressshoes #shoes #boots👢 #suits #norwegianshoes #handmade #handwork #hamdcrafted #menboots #bespokemakers

A post shared by 喜宝 (@xibaoshoemaker) on Jul 16, 2020 at 3:30am PDT

She and her husband (Chu Jiahao) together also operate the brand Oct Tenth:

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Focus: Norwegian stitching #octtenth #sonsofhenrey #handcrafted #handwelted #shoemaking #derby #oxford #loafer #monkshoes #smartcasual #fineshoes #bespoke #formal #stylish #sartorial #menswear #fashion #styleforum #permanentstyle #shoeporn #shoeaddiction #shanghai

A post shared by Chu JiaHao of Oct.Tenth (@oct_tenth) on Aug 4, 2020 at 7:32am PDT

In China, they sell through their Taobao store "TGC's Goodyear Shoe Store":

With enough background, we can now have a serious look at this influential factory by looking at its products. For now on, we will just refer to the Xibao - TGC - OctTenth factory as "TGC" for simplicity.

1. Construction method

TGC offers cemented (for their casual loafers), Blake (for their dress shoes) and "handmade Goodyear", which is basically handwelted (for their high-end dress shoes). The three lines are differentiated clearly by price. 

In theory, the Blake and handwelted constructions can both be resoled by the factory a reasonable number of times. Then of course, whether the international client would actually spend the time and effort to deal with China customs to send RMB 800 (Blake) or RMB 2500 ("handmade Goodyear" or handwelted) shoes back for resole would depend on how much love they have for the shoes. 

2. Lasts and designs

Through one of their staff members, Helen (@bwshoefactory), a catalogue of their lasts and designs was obtained:

Basically, their designs covered a healthy range of casual (Belgian, penny and tassel loafers), smart casual (chukka, derbies, and various boots) and dress (a wide range of laced and monk strap shoes). 

For the simple-minded like @shirtingfantasy, sometimes choosing just round/ square and standard/ wide would suffice:

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Focus: last comparison We have curated two sets of lasts for our current collection, Shang-Hai and Huang-Pu. The Shang(square)-Hai(round) pair is sleeker with tighter fitting (close to UK E width), while Huang(square)-Pu(round) is banana-shaped with more generous vamp area. #octtenth #sonsofhenrey #handcrafted #handwelted #shoemaking #derby #oxford #loafer #monkshoes #smartcasual #fineshoes #bespoke #formal #stylish #sartorial #menswear #fashion #styleforum #permanentstyle #shoeporn #shoeaddiction #shanghai

A post shared by Chu JiaHao of Oct.Tenth (@oct_tenth) on May 12, 2020 at 3:52am PDT

Wide, squared: Huang (i.e. 黃)

Wide, round: Pu (i.e. 浦)

Narrow, squared: Shang (i.e. 上)

Narrow, round: Hai (i.e. 海)

For those who have a bit of knowledge of Chinese cities, Huangpu and Shanghai should not be unfamiliar. 

3. Upper leather

According to TGC, their leathers are sourced from reputable tanneries such as Haas (France), Annonay (France), Bonaudo (Italy), Horween (USA) and CF Stead (UK). Depending on the leather chosen, the price can go up or down. For example, using Janus calf suede from CF Stead leads to a surcharge of around RMB 200 over regular Bonaudo crust. 

Norwegian stitched chukka boots in Haas grain. Photo via @chujiahao9759.

Norwegian stitched austerity wingtip boots in CF Stead janus calf suede. Photo via @chujiahao9759.

Realising this post is getting long, I decided to let the photos of my pair do the talking:

Unboxing - 1

Unboxing - 2

The actual shoes. Upper looks like hand-painted crust.
[edit: according to Mr Chu, this is hand-painted on an Annonay natural colour leather]

Stitching is neat. Hand-painted patina isn't the neatest, but the shade is a decent dark oak. 

Some uneven colour especially near the stitching. The stitching itself is neat. 

No Cuban heel on this pair. 

For those who must look at the stitch-mark as a hallmark for handwelted construction... 

Leather looks fine-pored.

This is a 41.5 in the wider Pu last. Fits comfortably on my ~UK 7.5E feet. 

As @shirtingfantasy accidentally splashed some rubbing alcohol on the shoes and discoloured the shoes a bit, had to do some touch-up using Saphir dye. Before dye application, De-Solv-it was used for speedy wax removal. 

Fawn wax. 

Tobacco wax.

Dark brown wax.

Initial polishing finished. 

Another photo of the polished pair. 

Until then, good bye!

TGC Handmade Shoes (TGC的固特异鞋铺, literally translated "TGC's Goodyear Shoe Store")

https://shop154911855.world.taobao.com/

Minimum order: 1 pair

Price range: approx. RMB 800 up for Blake, RMB 1750 - 2500 for handwelted, RMB 3500 and up for fiddleback finishing

CMT service: Yes (especially recommended for shops)

Handmade options: handlasted, handwelted, machine-stitched outsole with handstitching at the waist

Mr Chu JiaHao (@chujiahao9759) 

Mrs Chu "Xibao" (@xibaoshoemaker)