[Also see previous posts of this review series: The Anthology Shirt Review (Part I) and The Anthology Shirt Review (Part II). Prices of Thomas Mason shirts have changed since the last review, so the reader may like to inquire before ordering to avoid nasty surprises.]
The mindful reader should remember how I have had negative experiences of final-worse-than-fitting deliveries from tailors-I-shall-not-name1. The curious reader must be eager to know whether The Anthology - together with her proud owner Andy - would fall victim to the caustic sarcasm of @shirtingfantasy.
Let's cut to the chase:
Overall comment
1. A clean and comfortable fit.
2. Compatible with a moderate to large amount of movement.
3. Very satisfactory. 9/10.
Specific comment (with photos)
1. The cut of the upper chest was neat and tidy, all the way to both shoulders. Perhaps the shirting linen is to be praised?2
2. The armhole tightness issue was resolved. Andy's "ever-higher armhole" strategy apparently worked. Sleeves are beautifully cut and not too slim. The final sleeve length also ended up being correct as well.
3. Shirt length is on the short side. I should have raised this point during fitting. Perhaps adding a couple of inches will make sure the shirt stays tucked in (it feels a bit insecure when I sit).
My liking for this fabric is paradoxical. It's not smooth, not "drapy" - and has such coarse yarns and dry finishing that makes it something @shirtingfantasy would normally detest. But it was, on the other hand, a very likeable fabric. Scroll down and you will see why3:
Overall, it was a very satisfactory shirt. The no-interlining construction gave a very casual flair to the shirt (which, honestly, I am still adjusting to) - and the cuffs and collar are very, very soft and lacking "structure". Andy thinks it's nice, but I seem to suffer from buyer's remorse and have been thinking if a thick and soft non-fused cotton interlining would make it an even better shirt.
In case the reader hasn't noticed: @shirtingfantasy likes museum/ misty/ gradient colours, and it isn't that hard to see why the fabric was so adorable, right?
And now I will have to pick the fabric for my second and third shirts. May cotton poplin fits just as well...
Until then, goodbye!
Footnote:
[1] Meaning more than one, obviously. Adverse experiences are arguably essential for growth.
[2] Let's not praise Andy too much! I am not the most difficult body to fit, to be honest. A complication of shoulders that are very well-fitted is that it shows my excessive sloping on the right - which is not a pretty sight.
[3] The reason is the fading, obviously. This effect is developed over five (5) washes in total, which isn't slow by any standard! If you look at the button stitching, you can actually see some blue indigo has bled onto the thread; at the area beneath the button (see the buttonhole), one should also see a darker shade of unwashed indigo, protected during wash (I washed this shirt buttoned-up after receiving it). I don't really know what the shirt will look like after a few more washes.
Shop information:
The Anthology
Minimum order: three shirts (first order), no restriction thereafter
Price range: HKD 750+/shirt for house fabric, HKD 1180+/shirt for Thomas Mason fabric (due to recent increase in price, there was a HKD 100 increase from previous HKD 1080). Alumo Soyella HKD 2180+/shirt. [prices as of 19-6-2018]
CMT service: Not available
Handmade option: Not available
Mr Andy Chong
7/F, 8 On Wo Lane, Central, Hong Kong tel/+852 2799 3078
The mindful reader should remember how I have had negative experiences of final-worse-than-fitting deliveries from tailors-I-shall-not-name1. The curious reader must be eager to know whether The Anthology - together with her proud owner Andy - would fall victim to the caustic sarcasm of @shirtingfantasy.
Surprise, surprise!
It did not happen. The vampire readers have no blood to taste this time.
 |
| The final shirt. Photo taken by my wife, so no one can complain about the image quality this time. |
Let's cut to the chase:
Overall comment
1. A clean and comfortable fit.
2. Compatible with a moderate to large amount of movement.
3. Very satisfactory. 9/10.
Specific comment (with photos)
1. The cut of the upper chest was neat and tidy, all the way to both shoulders. Perhaps the shirting linen is to be praised?2
2. The armhole tightness issue was resolved. Andy's "ever-higher armhole" strategy apparently worked. Sleeves are beautifully cut and not too slim. The final sleeve length also ended up being correct as well.
3. Shirt length is on the short side. I should have raised this point during fitting. Perhaps adding a couple of inches will make sure the shirt stays tucked in (it feels a bit insecure when I sit).
My liking for this fabric is paradoxical. It's not smooth, not "drapy" - and has such coarse yarns and dry finishing that makes it something @shirtingfantasy would normally detest. But it was, on the other hand, a very likeable fabric. Scroll down and you will see why3:
 |
| MOP button. Normal kind of stitching (not lily), but is nicely shanked. |
 |
| Neat. |
 |
| Buttonhole is machine-made - see the little white thread in the middle. Neat, nonetheless. |
 |
| Pentagonal side gusset. Stitching is very close to the edge. |
 |
| Split yoke. Photo taken from inside of shirt - so it's a real split yoke. |
Overall, it was a very satisfactory shirt. The no-interlining construction gave a very casual flair to the shirt (which, honestly, I am still adjusting to) - and the cuffs and collar are very, very soft and lacking "structure". Andy thinks it's nice, but I seem to suffer from buyer's remorse and have been thinking if a thick and soft non-fused cotton interlining would make it an even better shirt.
In case the reader hasn't noticed: @shirtingfantasy likes museum/ misty/ gradient colours, and it isn't that hard to see why the fabric was so adorable, right?
And now I will have to pick the fabric for my second and third shirts. May cotton poplin fits just as well...
Until then, goodbye!
 |
| Shirt-maker @the_travelling_artisan thinks I should NOT wash this shirt in a washing machine, "look at all those white creases!". He doesn't know I am actually after these random creases! If one likes the slow fading at/ around the stitches, the shirting should not be washed prior to making and the final shirt should (probably) only be gently hand washed - don't ask me whether you can twist the shirt to dry it. |
Footnote:
[1] Meaning more than one, obviously. Adverse experiences are arguably essential for growth.
[2] Let's not praise Andy too much! I am not the most difficult body to fit, to be honest. A complication of shoulders that are very well-fitted is that it shows my excessive sloping on the right - which is not a pretty sight.
[3] The reason is the fading, obviously. This effect is developed over five (5) washes in total, which isn't slow by any standard! If you look at the button stitching, you can actually see some blue indigo has bled onto the thread; at the area beneath the button (see the buttonhole), one should also see a darker shade of unwashed indigo, protected during wash (I washed this shirt buttoned-up after receiving it). I don't really know what the shirt will look like after a few more washes.
Shop information:
The Anthology
Minimum order: three shirts (first order), no restriction thereafter
Price range: HKD 750+/shirt for house fabric, HKD 1180+/shirt for Thomas Mason fabric (due to recent increase in price, there was a HKD 100 increase from previous HKD 1080). Alumo Soyella HKD 2180+/shirt. [prices as of 19-6-2018]
CMT service: Not available
Handmade option: Not available
Mr Andy Chong
7/F, 8 On Wo Lane, Central, Hong Kong tel/+852 2799 3078
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