[Note added on 29-5-2018: Andy informed me that the collar length he made up should indeed be 8 cm (I somehow remember specifying that too) and he was planning to make it 8.5 cm, which I gladly agreed. I remember measuring the collar length at The Anthology on the day of fitting and it was indeed around 7 cm. Perhaps it depends on how one measures it - but it is clear evidence of how a prototype shirt can indeed be useful.]
Also see the previous part of this review series: The Anthology Shirt Review (Part I)
Also see the previous part of this review series: The Anthology Shirt Review (Part I)
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| Clear weather after a brief shower. 32 degrees Celsius. Sheung Wan. |
The Sun is hot and the wait is over. I emerge from the air-conditioned MTR station to catch up with my Anthology shirt journey.
About 10 days after the measurement session, I was informed by Andy that my fitting shirt is ready. I am eager to see how the complicated measurements and the palpation process, which is not unlike the Chinese astrological "bone-feeling" (摸骨), would translate into a physical product for the not-so-metaphysical @shirtingfantasy.
The fitting shirt is notable for a number of reasons:
1. A thin cotton, instead of the actual fabric, is used. Andy hinted that it is deliberately chosen to be a thin and light cotton to "better show problem areas". Almost sounds like Italian muslin fitting shirts.
2. The shirt is fully-finished - with sleeves attached, and with dense stitching instead of whatever basted construction one may expect from Italian artisanal makers.
3. It is made according to the actual specifications of my order: the collar style (semi-spread), the collar length (8 cm) and even the special construction (no interlining).
While I agree totally with the spirit of the second point - as a wearable shirt is the only way to allow realistic evaluation of the degree of movement/ ease by the client; the standardization of using a particular thin cotton, to me, sounds a bit paradoxical. If the whole purpose of a fully-finished fitting shirt is to simulate the final shirt as much as possible, theoretically, then, a shirting in similar weight as the intended fabric will better serve the purpose.
Without further ado, the fit:
People display all sorts of weird poses when they attend fittings. To stand in a military posture and hang both upper arms unnaturally in mid-air is obviously one of that. Aha! So @shirtingfantasy is no exception to this? Trust me - above is just for the reader to better appreciate the waistline and overall shape of the shirt1.
Overall comment
1. A clean fit with suitable adjustments for shoulder slopes.
2. Compatible with a moderate amount of movement.
3. Well-above average, especially for a first fit. 8/10.
Specific issues raised
1. The cut of the upper chest could be better streamlined. Andy decided to take away about 0.5-1 cm from both sides. I do not object. See point (2).
2. There is some tightness issue with the very high armhole. Andy insisted that an even higher armhole would solve the problem, whereas I suspect it may have something to do with the back and lateral width of the chest instead. In the end we agreed to disagree, and it was decided that Andy's proposed solution be tried out.
3. Sleeves are slightly on the short side - even in natural position. Andy agreed to lengthen them a bit on the final shirt.
4. Collar length: my bad. I specified 7 cm when I found 8 cm would actually look better. Andy also agreed to adjust that for the final shirt.
To be honest I am more fastidious with fabric than with shirts2. And those are all I could think of on the spot. Anyway, we shall see how the final shirt turns out: once in a while, we do see a final shirt fitting worse than a prototype/ fitting. And in that case, I would reject the shirt3. For now, let's hope this option is so massive and powerful that I pray to God will never have to be used.
P.S. Some nice fabric shots4, for the fabric fanatic like me.
Until then, goodbye!
Footnote:
[1] I am a fool. But I am not that eager to let the world know, so to speak.
[2] Otherwise I would have called myself @shirtfantasy, @bespokefantasy or @buzzspoke
[3] I once rejected a final MTM shirt from SuitSupply and a bespoke shirt from another local tailor I shall not name. I also donated more than a couple of my unwearable shirts, mostly as a result of seriously flawed measurements.
[4] Shots of nice fabric, to be very precise.
[5] Don't ask me where they get it from. The two big bunches contain over 400 shirtings and cover everything from wrinkle-resistant Alumo (I do not even know of its existence before this) to Soyella Duocento (200/2 x 200/2) and Salvatore Triplo (160/3 x 160/3). Quite a nice book to look at and more importantly to feel the Alumo hand, if you ask me.
Shop information:
The Anthology
Mr Andy Chong
7/F, 8 On Wo Lane, Central, Hong Kong tel/+852 2799 3078
 |
| The Anthology fitting shirt. It is claimed that this specially-constructed fitting shirt will be donated to The Salvation Army after my fitting session. |
The fitting shirt is notable for a number of reasons:
1. A thin cotton, instead of the actual fabric, is used. Andy hinted that it is deliberately chosen to be a thin and light cotton to "better show problem areas". Almost sounds like Italian muslin fitting shirts.
2. The shirt is fully-finished - with sleeves attached, and with dense stitching instead of whatever basted construction one may expect from Italian artisanal makers.
3. It is made according to the actual specifications of my order: the collar style (semi-spread), the collar length (8 cm) and even the special construction (no interlining).
While I agree totally with the spirit of the second point - as a wearable shirt is the only way to allow realistic evaluation of the degree of movement/ ease by the client; the standardization of using a particular thin cotton, to me, sounds a bit paradoxical. If the whole purpose of a fully-finished fitting shirt is to simulate the final shirt as much as possible, theoretically, then, a shirting in similar weight as the intended fabric will better serve the purpose.
Without further ado, the fit:
 |
| I turn around for Andy's sweet shop assistant to take this photo for me, to allow better lighting (obviously). The slight beaking at the shoulders is said to be due to her misplaced ironing efforts - and how can I blame her for that? |
People display all sorts of weird poses when they attend fittings. To stand in a military posture and hang both upper arms unnaturally in mid-air is obviously one of that. Aha! So @shirtingfantasy is no exception to this? Trust me - above is just for the reader to better appreciate the waistline and overall shape of the shirt1.
Overall comment
1. A clean fit with suitable adjustments for shoulder slopes.
2. Compatible with a moderate amount of movement.
3. Well-above average, especially for a first fit. 8/10.
Specific issues raised
1. The cut of the upper chest could be better streamlined. Andy decided to take away about 0.5-1 cm from both sides. I do not object. See point (2).
2. There is some tightness issue with the very high armhole. Andy insisted that an even higher armhole would solve the problem, whereas I suspect it may have something to do with the back and lateral width of the chest instead. In the end we agreed to disagree, and it was decided that Andy's proposed solution be tried out.
3. Sleeves are slightly on the short side - even in natural position. Andy agreed to lengthen them a bit on the final shirt.
4. Collar length: my bad. I specified 7 cm when I found 8 cm would actually look better. Andy also agreed to adjust that for the final shirt.
 |
| Shirt, post-fitting. Ready for The Salvation Army (according to Andy). |
To be honest I am more fastidious with fabric than with shirts2. And those are all I could think of on the spot. Anyway, we shall see how the final shirt turns out: once in a while, we do see a final shirt fitting worse than a prototype/ fitting. And in that case, I would reject the shirt3. For now, let's hope this option is so massive and powerful that I pray to God will never have to be used.
P.S. Some nice fabric shots4, for the fabric fanatic like me.
 |
| Albini's new bunch. |
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| And... ALUMO!!!5 |
Until then, goodbye!
Footnote:
[1] I am a fool. But I am not that eager to let the world know, so to speak.
[2] Otherwise I would have called myself @shirtfantasy, @bespokefantasy or @buzzspoke
[3] I once rejected a final MTM shirt from SuitSupply and a bespoke shirt from another local tailor I shall not name. I also donated more than a couple of my unwearable shirts, mostly as a result of seriously flawed measurements.
[4] Shots of nice fabric, to be very precise.
[5] Don't ask me where they get it from. The two big bunches contain over 400 shirtings and cover everything from wrinkle-resistant Alumo (I do not even know of its existence before this) to Soyella Duocento (200/2 x 200/2) and Salvatore Triplo (160/3 x 160/3). Quite a nice book to look at and more importantly to feel the Alumo hand, if you ask me.
Shop information:
The Anthology
Minimum order: three shirts (first order), no restriction thereafter
Price range: HKD 750+/shirt for house fabric, HKD 1080+/shirt for Thomas Mason fabric. DJA and Alumo pricing yet to be available as of the time of writing [27-5-2018].
CMT service: Not available
Handmade option: Not availablePrice range: HKD 750+/shirt for house fabric, HKD 1080+/shirt for Thomas Mason fabric. DJA and Alumo pricing yet to be available as of the time of writing [27-5-2018].
CMT service: Not available
Mr Andy Chong
7/F, 8 On Wo Lane, Central, Hong Kong tel/+852 2799 3078
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