Grandi & Rubinelli - Italian Excellence!

[2018-09-09: This post has been edited per the kind feedback from Mr Carl Goldberg. Please see the comment section for more information.]

What are some big names in shirting?

Albini, Monti, and Canclini, if you ask Simon Crompton. FYI, Simon has recently launched the PS Oxford fabric with Canclini, and not so long ago the Everyday Denim with Albini. Perhaps we shall just wait for a while to witness Simon's love for Monti as well, the Perfect Poplin, perhaps?

The names are a little different: Alumo, Grandi & Rubinelli, and Carlo Riva, if you ask the Parisian Gentleman. Then again, we know that, as with all great people, menswear writers are true to their real love - just have a look at their Limited Edition “Go-To” blue shirts in Alumo 120/2 “Supraluxe” (which, of course, is produced by Marol, the maker l'extraordinaire which exemplifies all the quality hallmarks of a shirt even in their ready-to-wear offerings).

The specific preferences, obviously, are driven by more than just quality. And let's not forget the iGent always love a seemingly untouchable exclusivity:

"One roll of Alumo fabric (60m) can produce 33 shirts, if the cutter is using 1.8m per shirt. But if one wants to buy Alumo fabric, there is a four roll minimum requirement." - Sonya Glyn Nicholson, Parisian Gentleman 

"As one of the most mystical and fantastical legends in shirt fabric-making, Carlo Riva uses vintage machines which weave slowly. Bolt size ranges from a width of 75 cm for linen to 90cm for other fine shirting (the industry standard for one bolt is 150 cm wide). The fabric is sold by the roll only." - Sonya Glyn Nicholson, Parisian Gentleman 

Of course, then, if these claims are true, Sonya's roll is very different from mine, or, I may have been using a different Système international...

Anyhow, by now I should probably return to today's topic: Grandi & Rubinelli (GR).

Like many others, I knew GR initially from the menswear Wikipedia of styleforum. The tempting thread started by Souper shirtmaven was what drove me to the bulk purchase of Zevi, Luna and Skipper a few years ago.

The "Skipper" 170/2 poplin was not shown. Faint memory suggested that the short length was divided among friends of mine before I could take this group photo.

And just when I was starting to forget about the brand (likely due to evil influence from Bonfanti Tessuti and Carlo Riva), the chance to "buy more GR" suddenly struck me as a friend of mine asked if I would like some of his GR Sea Island 140/2 (the answer being positive, over 95% of the time). In the end, I took the opportunity to continue my journey in surveying GR fabric by adding also a few cuts of 200/2 in various weaves.

Grandi & Rubinelli "Sky Royal" 200/2 royal oxford

Grandi & Rubinelli "Sky Twill" 200/2 twill

Grandi & Rubinelli "Skyline" 200/2 poplin

What is the way to evaluate these fabric before making? The simple answer: wash them as you would normally wash a shirt. If, after washing, the fabric still exhibits suppleness and a bouncy hand, then it is almost certain that the fabric is a real performer. Good cotton, particularly Egyptian Giza 45 (link to Giza Cotton LLC website) and Sea Island cotton (link to the current holder of the WISICA brand) do get better with wash. Do they eventually wear out? Yes, all shirtings (and therefore shirts) eventually wear out - it is what happens between the first wear and the last that really matters...

Washed and brutally tumble dried. Click on the video to see the amazing recovery of the very fine fabric.

Maybe I should tell you how I test (aka abuse) fabric next time. For now, I will just let my readers salivate over the photos. You may also like to see my previous reviews on SIC Tess and Italian denim (here and there), to get a pathologic "self-stimulation".

Until then, goodbye!

Brand information:

Tessitura Grandi & Rubinelli S.r.l.

Str. per Novara, 280, 28062 Cameri NO, Italy tel/+39 0321 622458