New CMT Maker on the Golden Scene – Part II: Carrying On the Tailoring Journey

Happy New Year 2025 to all menswear aficionados!

Workshop shot of the second jacket: handmade stitching done by an outworker

Yes, it has been quite a wait for Part II of this review, especially with Part I appearing in mid-October 2024. The delay is almost scandalous given that the second jacket was finished ages ago. Nvm, life is life. As for the whereabouts of @shirtingfantasy lately: December 2025 was shoe season for the year 2024 (timey-wimey confusion included), and so the blog had to take a back seat.

But let’s cut to the chase. Here’s the latest update on Mr Xu’s workshop: the price for a half-canvassed jacket has nudged up to RMB 980, while a fully-canvassed remains at RMB 1,650. This was confirmed by a fellow enthusiast who recently placed an order with Mr Xu.

So why, you might wonder, did @shirtingfantasy commission a second jacket (as seen above), fully aware that the craftsmanship is not identical to that of the international brand the factory supposedly produces for? Here’s why:

  1. Balancing Cost vs. Wearability
    True elegance in dressing lies in wearing garments with ease, not tiptoeing around them in fear of stains or snags. When a piece of clothing becomes “too expensive” in relation to one’s disposable income or personal value preferences, it can end up draining the fun from wearing it. A more affordable option—like Mr Xu’s swift and reliable CMT service—lets you enjoy your wardrobe without feeling overly precious about it.

  2. Focusing on the Overall Look
    An outfit is an OUT-fit: it’s the synergy of colour, texture, and style that truly matters. While high levels of handwork certainly have their place—think hand-padded canvasses and hand-sewn details—it’s not everything. A skilled maker who truly understands materials and customer requirements can be more valuable than an artisan who piles on craft for craft’s sake. Remember, even top shirtmaker D’Avino Napoli avoids hand-sewn edge stitching on collars or cuffs, simply because machine stitching there results in a cleaner look.

  3. Exploring New Fabrics
    In the post-COVID era, we’re seeing an influx of “last length” fabrics from famous mills like Zegna and Loro Piana. Some of these are pure cashmere, others fine worsteds with super-low micron fine wool, all at surprisingly accessible prices. Naturally, these “grey source” fabrics require a bit of trial and error. A budget-friendly, quick-turnaround CMT service allows menswear enthusiasts to experiment with these fabrics without too much financial risk.

Close-up of the handmade Milanese buttonhole on the lapel

With that, @shirtingfantasy would like to thank you for keeping up with this two-part review. Next time, we’ll be re-entering the realm of footwear (yes, you guessed it, more shoe talk ahead!). Meanwhile, if you’re interested in giving Mr Xu’s services a try, his contact info is right below—just as in Part I. Until then, goodbye!

Mr Xu (aka 大牌西服代工廠)
Minimum order: 1 MTM jacket / 1 pair of MTM trousers
Price range:
• Half-canvassed jacket: RMB 980
• Fully-canvassed jacket: RMB 1,650
• Trousers: RMB 400
Handmade options: Milanese buttonhole for lapel (+RMB 100), full handmade buttonholes (+RMB 200), handmade pick-stitching (+RMB 100), handmade bar tacks (+RMB 80)
Contact: Mr Xu (WeChat ID: ww742809593, Instagram: @xuxin6134, XHS "RED ID":303209599)

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