PYE Made-to-Order Shirt Review - Part II

Cotton cashmere MTO shirt by PYE. The fit is noticeably more generous - makes one grow breasts.

For the ordering process, one may refer to the Part I review. 

After two weeks of wait, @shirtingfantasy received his PYE MTO shirts. The shopping experience was overall efficient, and should particularly appeal to busy business people. In this blog, however, we focus on material and craftsmanship. 

It is generally unfair to critique on the fit of MTO / RTW shirts. However, as @shirtingfantasy has now experienced both Determinant (entry-level diffusion line of PYE) and PYE MTO now, a few observations may just as well be made:

1. PYE offers a more generous fit compared to Determinant
2. PYE has more tight-fitting cuffs compared to Determinant
3. PYE's fit allows relatively easy bodily movement, despite the use of regular non-stretch fabric

This kind of fit difference is not surprising. In general, as one moves up the different tiers of RTW menswear (e.g. G2000 -> SuitSupply -> Loro Piana), there is a general trend towards more relaxed styles and more generous fit options for a (presumably) more wealthy and well-nourished clientele. 

The enthusiast's question, however, is: does the increase in price bring a discernible increase in "quality"? Do note that quality, unlike many on StyleForum would make you think otherwise, has a very clear definition, i.e. the totality of features and characteristics of a product or service that bear on its ability to satisfy stated or implied needs. It means that quality in @shirtingfantasy's eyes may be very different from that in TheFitGuy's eyes, or that in TheLuxuryGuy's eyes. Quality is really in the eye of the beholder. 

With this in mind, we may explore the certain discernible differences in make particular to PYE.

1. Stitch density and seam width: a moderate stitch density higher than inexpensive RTW (e.g. Determinant), but lower than that of reputable local bespoke makers (e.g. Ascot Chang and makers trained in their workshop); likewise, side seams and bottom hem are narrower than entry-level shirts, but wider than good bespoke.

While reputable local bespoke makers usually use a higher stitch density / narrower seams for their bespoke shirts for a refined look (esp. on collar and cuffs, up to 22 stitches per inch), it is also recognised that the denser / narrower is not always better.

Dense stitching / narrow seams and hem certainly require better skill execute neatly, require more time to make, and give the product a more dressy look. However, upon washing, they are also prone to puckering. Industrially, shirt factories (PYE / Determinant's parent company Esquel included) address the issue by a combination of (i) optimising sewing thread and stitch density, (ii) optimising relative shrinkage, (iii) use taping or similar treatments at the seams where it matters. 

Just as a fully handmade shirt should not be subjected to unduly harsh washing cycles, and may not be the most practical shirt for the business executive who just wants a crisp, hassle-free shirt, PYE's choices should perhaps be regarded as reasonable compromises. 

Left: Bespoke shirt by MH Wong (@wongmanhoi1025)- pure WISICA cotton by Bonfanti Tessuti
Middle: RTW by Determinant (@determinantofficial) - pure Xinjiang cotton
Right: MTO by PYE (@pyeshirts) - cotton silk mix

Chained armhole stitching. This special chained machine stitch is found on both PYE and Determinant shirts.

2. Buttons and attachment: nice MOP, nicely machine shanked. The 2-mm thickness of the MOP buttons is relatively thin compared to most luxury offerings (many brands offer 3-mm or above).

It is true that thicker buttons can be hard to button and unbutton, but thick MOP buttons with vivid rainbow effect offer additional aesthetics value and a luxury touch that is quite unparalleled by lower-cost options. Additionally, makers often engineer special features (e.g. handmade, silk-thread reinforced buttonholes) to make sure even 4-mm MOP buttons would not affect usability of the shirt. 

D'avino Napoli handmade buttonhole and MOP button

D'avino Napoli hand-shanked 4-mm button

As such, PYE's use of trocas buttons for their Universal / Classic ranges (instead of MOP) and 2-mm MOP buttons for their Definitive / Infinity ranges (instead of thicker MOP) should both be considered mere cost-containing measures. 

 

Mother-of-Pearl button on PYE MTO shirt (Definitive line)

Machine-shanked button. Here, the 2-mm thickness of the button is also seen.

3. Pattern-matching: spectacular, but misses on the side gussets!

Side seam

At the yoke split

Across the shoulder areas

Even at the upper / lower sides of the collar

Unfortunately, misses on the side gusset!

@shirtingfantasy would like to close this subjective, biased, non user-friendly review with a few general comments:

1. At the MTO price of around HKD 2,500 (the minimum one would have to pay to get MOP buttons (instead of trocas shell) and fabric with yarn count 140/2 (instead of 100/2), there are a lot of competing options, esp. local bespoke. 

2. The fused collar and cuffs from PYE feel "right", and their designs are way more "generous" compared to most RTW shirts in the HKD 800 to HKD 1,500 range. Since Universal / Classic ranges from PYE are entitled to the same collar options as the higher ranges, they could be reasonable choices for these "generous" designs. 

3. The roll of the fused button-down collar is rather decent.

4. The cuff design of the Definitive range is sophisticated and likeable, arguably nicer than the superlative Infinity range. The 1-mm edge stitching is also very neatly done. 

5. The two-button cuff for diameter adjustment makes their MTO feel RTW. It is unfortunately something one cannot opt-out from. 

6. Despite their weaving expertise, the cotton silk and cotton cashmere mix fabric chosen by @shirtingfantasy this time do not feel spectacular. Cotton silk from Soktas and cotton cashmere from Monti / Albini / Carlo Riva / Alumo have a better hand. The difference is particularly marked after wash. As a matter of fact, PYE's cotton cashmere mix feels like a robust cotton wool mix, say "Kendal" from Acorn...

N.B. special detergent suitable for wool / cashmere / silk was used, so it was not due to harshness of detergent used

The million dollar question:

"So, will you buy again?"

And my answer is,

"Well, not at the moment. But who really knows? Their cotton cashmere blue twill looks quite nice..."

Shop information:

PYE Shirts

Minimum order: 1 shirt

Price range: HKD 1,000 (Classic / Universal RTW) - 4,000 (Infinity MTO)
CMT service: No

Handmade option: Don't even think about it