Fabric stories

[Edited 2-5-2019: corrected some technical information.]

A picture is worth a thousand words. At the risk of exceeding the word limit of a normal blog post, I would like to tell the story of four shirts - from four wonderful pieces of fabric. All shirts bespoke by @wongmanhoi2015 - no mystery needed.

1. Carlo Riva "Lino Oxford" 180/2 Cotton - Linen Basketweave

If @shirtingfantasy had to choose just ONE luxury fabric brand, it would have to be Carlo Riva by FERMO FOSSATI 1871 srl. 

Few brands give the wearer a consistent sense of luxury. Carlo Riva is one. Bonfanti Tessuti is another. 

Note that some Italian makers pass Bonfanti Tessuti fabric as Carlo Riva, as the latter is priced at about 70% of the former while weaving some strikingly similar articles (e.g. Bonfanti's "Belfast" in 170/2 is very similar to Carlo Riva's "Voile Twill" in 180/2). Both are woven in traditional shuttle looms in 90 cm width - and thus the slowness of weaving, the higher cost of production, and the even higher cost of procurement and making due to the narrow width. 

The bottom line: certain articles are exclusively woven by Carlo Riva, e.g. Lino Oxford and Lino Arsenal. If you are not buying directly from Fermo Fossati or her authorized dealers, stick to these varieties. 

2. Atelier Romentino "Ford" 180/2 Cotton Poplin

Atelier Romentino is the luxury line of TESTA. As a medium-sized mill in Italy, TESTA has been able to maintain a basic collection (uninterestingly called TESTA) and a premium collection (called Atelier Romentino, apparently because the company is located in Romentino, Novara, Italy). 

What is the difference between niche mills like Bonfanti Tessuti and medium-sized mills like TESTA? While both must confine their production in Italy (due to their smallness) and do not have the ability to produce their own yarns (big mills like Albini now own cotton fields and yarn-spinning factories), TESTA is able to perform fabric finishing in-house - an essential ability in maintaining consistency of her fabric quality.

While the TESTA collection contains certain single-ply and sports fabric (e.g. some indigo linen twill, fancy flannel), the Atelier Romentino collection comprises only office-ready fabric with a starting yarn count (i.e. thickness, not threads per inch) of Ne 180/2. The finest fabric in the Atelier Romentino collection is called "Heaven", in 300/3 Giza 45, available in tela (plain weave) and twill.

Unfortunately, however, in early 2019 TESTA announced that, due to financial difficulties, her Italian production will stop. A Chinese mill in Jiangsu has taken over the brand. The future of the brand is uncertain.

 3. Alumo ? Etamine from Master Bi vintage collection Pure Cotton

What is the best shirt fabric brand in terms of quality?

I have asked a number of mill owners and shirtmakers, and the unanimous answer is Alumo.

While the construction and yarn quality of Alumo is never disputed, another characteristic of Alumo fabric is also certain: the designs are as uninspiring as it can get. Even Thomas Mason (the mid-tier offering from Albini) has more fancy and interesting designs. Also, the robustness and general crispness of Alumo fabric also mean that their fabric can lack the certain luxury hand exclusive to, say, Carlo Riva.

This special mint green stripe design originates from a vintage collection owned by shirtmaker Master Bi. The weave is an open Etamine-like weave with a very crisp hand. It feels almost like Fresco wool. What a gem for summer!

Nonetheless, the reader is reminded that the Master Bi vintage collection (1) comes with no woven labels and (2) there is no evidence of authenticity, apart from Master Bi's words and a sticker label on the bunch. The wary, cautious or generally paranoid reader should NOT bother Master Bi.

 4. DJA "Trinidad" 80/2 WISICA Sea Island

The Senior member in Discuss.com.hk/ Lihkg.com/ StyleForum.net sartorial guru Mr Yu (a.k.a. Fishball) and I once had a discussion on the most practical luxury shirting. This purchase is the result of that discussion.

A quick search in the Albini "Fabric Butler" app revealed that there is such item as pure WISICA Sea Island oxford fabric. Yarn count: 80/2. Composition: 100% WISICA-certified Sea Island cotton. Understated. Luxurious. Robust and practical. All boxes checked.

It amused Mr Yu and @shirtingfantasy greatly when the proxy who purchased the length for us could not even locate the fabric on the price list distributed by the Albini Hong Kong branch. Yes, it is that little-known. The agent didn't know what they were ordering.

Enthusiasts all enjoy owing some secret, exclusive items, don't we? 😉

Until then, good bye!