[N.B. This post has been edited as requested by the tailor. The reader may send me a message via @shirtingfantasy Instagram or email shirtingfantasy@gmail.com to obtain contact information of the maker. - 31/07/2018]
This is a controversial piece.
After I posted the price of a certain budget shirtmaker on Instagram, a concerned tailor1 contacted me and expressed his view on revealing "trade price" of shirt-making. Succinctly, he believes that the current low price charged by some maker-tailors (i.e. certain tailors which have their own workshop, and hence are able to charge "less than normal" prices by industry standards) is an exploitation to the maker-tailors themselves. By revealing the low price they charge, @shirtingfantasy is risking the health of the local tailoring industry, and potentially hastening the demise of what many believe to be a "dying art".
My counter-arguments are as follow:
1. Due to changes in global economic circumstances and industrialization of the made-to-measure (or even bespoke) process, traditional makers cannot charge what they used to charge in the 1970-80s (per inflation-adjusted prices). A simple example: if a customer pays HKD 2,999 for a suit, is he better off buying a suit made by a local "Canton work" maker or from budget tailoring brands such as SuitSupply? My answer would be the latter. The local maker simply doesn't have the economy of scale of large multi-national corporations to churn out even a decent product at that price level. And the first corner they cut is material (fabric, trimmings etc.). This is sad but true.
2. Not many customers are willing to sponsor the trade by accepting lower quality for the same price, or higher price for the same quality. Coming back to the shirt example: the local brand G2000 is selling pure cotton non-iron shirts at HKD 299 - which is actually just the perfect product many urban workers need, at a price many can afford. Will the G2000 customers suddenly decide to help save HK tailoring (Note: many of the so-called local tailors make their garments in Mainland China production facilities) and pay, say, HKD 500 or HKD 1,000 for a pure cotton, need-to-iron, bespoke shirt? I believe it is an uncommon occurrence.
3. By facilitating the dissemination of public information, we help curtail dishonest over-pricing. The respected local maker Ascot Chang charges HKD 1,800 for a typical shirt, and there is a first order minimum of three shirts - are they engaging in dishonest over-pricing, especially given their branches are located in the central business district (CBD) of Central and Tsimshatsui? I don't think so. How about the sprouting young "tailors" who charge HKD 500 - 1,000 for a fancy shirt made from polyester shirting (and emphasize such customizations as colours of the rainbow for each of your buttonholes? I think they are. If one's production process is inefficient, it is unfair (in my prejudiced view) to say the more efficient makers are killing the industry. There is, both ethically and from a utilitarian perspective, a need to preserve craftsmanship; and I believe there is a small enough group of clientele but a high enough price that can sustain the craft amidst the unstoppable process of industrialization.
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| This is just a space-holder photo. The purpose is just to end the discussion, and show some beautiful scenery and youthful beings. |
Now back to shirts. I do believe most of the readers on this blog are, sadly, more interested in shirts than sartorial history or conservation.
Because of specific concerns, the measurement process and the interactions with the shop will not be detailed2, we will cut to the chase:
Overall comment
1. A mostly clean fit. Some small issues (see specific comment below).
2. Compatible with some amount of movement.
3. Satisfactory. 7/10.
1. The cut of the upper chest was okay. When I say "okay", I mean shoulder width is correct and slope compensation is somehow done and deserves a pass. The shoulders were not as "rounded" as some better shirts; but then the fabric has only been washed a total of three times when the shirt is photographed (it was not pre-washed by the maker), the stiffness of new cotton has at least partially contributed to the "edge".
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| The apparent wrinkles on the shirt are due to the shiny weave of the fabric, which exaggerated the shades. The silhouette of the shirt (allow us to borrow the suit term) is contemporary and nice. |
2. There were no armhole issues. Just very normal, and one should not expect a degree of movement as much as certain Italian-influenced cuts.
3. Some strange tightness at the elbow. Despite about three measurements were taken along the arm were taken, the end result was a bit too skinny in fit. That should be easily correctable.
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| The elbow tightness was the single most displeasing point of the shirt. When the shirt was put on, it fixed the sleeve in some weird internally rotated position and required the wearer to painstakingly "rotate" the cuff and fabric on the forearm to feel better. |
Given that this is a measure-and-deliver shirt, there was no fitting process to review. I decided to focus a bit more on the make of the product:
1. Buttonholes and button attachment: Decent. Not shanked or hand-shanked, of course.
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| The MOP buttons are my own, if that's not already obvious. |
2. Interlining: Fused, obviously. Removal collar stay is non-default, but possible on request. A softer interlining was requested, but there wasn't really a choice and the end-result was a rather stiff collar anyway.
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| Stitch density is not particularly high. The non-removable collar stay is obvious between the parallel lines of stitching. |
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| Left (orange): Reviewed shirt. Middle (powder blue): Wong shirt by @wongmanhoi1025. Fabric for both shirts from the special archive and experimental fabric collections of Bonfanti Tessuti, hence the reader may not find them on the website. |
Epilogue
Consumerism is about the experience of purchase. It is up to the kind-hearted customer to choose a socially beneficial (or "responsible") product. There may be a moral obligation for the richer few to support an endangered craft or industry - however, in a free society, I argue, that it is ultimately an autonomous choice of the consumer.
Does @shirtingfantasy have a moral obligation to promote craft (and hide makers which certain craftsman, self-proclaimed or well-regarded, consider as "exploiting the industry" only because they charge a too affordable price)? Does @shirtingfantasy have a moral obligation to foster and create fertile ground for local craftsmanship (even if it means convincing readers to accept the initially sub-par product or unreasonable waiting time)?
There is no simple answer to the above questions. Rather, I would invite the reader to look at our (meaning my) Editorial Policy, which is based on three simple values:
1. Non-maleficence
2. Respect for autonomy
3. Fairness
If even one of my readers - who has never stepped into the world of made-to-measure/ bespoke because of the perceived high price of custom-made garments - can be persuaded to begin his journey, I would consider the overall good I did (by promoting tailoring and creating new demand) greater than the overall harm (by making certain budding entrepreneurs lose precious business) I created.
Footnote:
[1] To honour the request of the concerned tailor, the price of the garment is changed to the internet favourite of "xxx" in the quoted Instagram post and shop information section.
[2] The shop allows @shirtingfantasy to report about the product, but declined an interview. When asked whether the shop address should be revealed, the answer was ambiguous.
Shop information:
(Name has been removed)
Minimum order: no minimum order
Price range: xxx (see footnote [1])
CMT service: Yes
Handmade option: N.A.
Any Ascot Chang shirt review?
ReplyDeleteWill do - have been too busy with all these new makers recently.
DeleteAscot Chang remains a respectable maker. They have delivered consistent quality. While their shirts lack the "wow" factor of Italian shirts, I return to them often, especially when I need a good, formal shirt. Their hand-stitched shirts remain some of the "neatest" handmade shirts I've owned.
There is a reason why traders of various businesses communicate with weird practices such as hiding their hands under a cloth and communicate by gestures that are only known within the circle instead of by talking to each other. Facilitating the dissemination of information to the public surely does help customers but on the flip side, it is like replacing the cloth with a piece of cling wrap: placing what is supposed to be trade secret under broad daylight. Is this thinking too conservative? Perhaps it is, but I don't see (assisting in) killing small businesses and driving people to big companies is any more moral or healthy. Diversity may be the key.
ReplyDeleteTo a certain extent you are right. I may be too optimistic in believing wholesalers may enjoy diversification of their businesses by selling to individuals. It seems that they would rather do it in a very controlled manner to maintain a reasonable relationship with the retailers. This may indeed be how the very intricate idea of Chinese decency works.
Delete