Denim is not dress, and dress is not denim. But since opinion leaders like Simon Crompton argued that you can wear a denim shirt to work, to play and pretty much anywhere in the world and dubbed it the Everyday Denim (the fabric made for him by Albini, the shirt he sells), people start to think so.
From a meeting with Alberto Azzola of Testa SpA earlier this year, we learned that a coming fashion trend, at least for SS 2019 (next year, not this), is indeed denim - or a denim-look, I would argue.
As an enthusiast, I feel that I have the obligation to make things clear: this Kimono (着物, きもの) is actually woven and finished in Italy - not Japan as its name may imply. Moreover, whether this is actually a denim shall remain a contentious issue...
As can be seen from the zoomed-in view above, some of the Kimono aren't in a typical twill weave. If we google the definition of denim and chambray, this is what we get:
It seems to be clear? No! Look further down...
Who is Kimono?
What is Kimono?
Why am I buying Kimono?
At the end of the day, I have to admit that I was compelled to buy Kimono for two reasons:
1. It is 100% linen. It sounds cool.
Metaphorically. Those who know me know that I am a staunch supporter of cotton/ linen mix for summer, instead of whatever pure linen.
But there is one good thing about the linen fibre, as you may infer from below...
2. It is indigo dyed. It sounds even cooler.
Again, a metaphor/ insider joke only my very good self can appreciate.
Indigo plus linen sounds like the perfect combo to develop fading over time. Colour fastness for linen is a non-issue - it will bleed, for sure - and for real indigo-dyed garment, people do expect them to fade, for a whatever vintage effect they may desire.
Before we part, I shall show the wash effect on a Kimono swatch after only one washing. I washed it with a domestic washer-dryer, and ironed it lightly for photo-taking.
And I shall end with the Shakespeare quote:
"What's in a name? that which we call a rose. By any other name would smell as sweet."
And that would conclude my view on the Kimono denim/ chambray/ whatever.
P.S. When @bamboohkg and I met Alberto, it was thought that the weight of Kimono would be suitable for making safari jackets. It turned out not to be the case. Alberto warned us and he was right.
Until then, goodbye!
 |
| Denim, denim and denim. With our beloved @wongmanhoi1025, of course. |
From a meeting with Alberto Azzola of Testa SpA earlier this year, we learned that a coming fashion trend, at least for SS 2019 (next year, not this), is indeed denim - or a denim-look, I would argue.
 |
| "Yes, it's indigo dyed!" |
 |
| A closer look. The astute reader should see the "Spring - Summer 19" on the swatch cards. They aren't meant for this season, yet... |
As an enthusiast, I feel that I have the obligation to make things clear: this Kimono (着物, きもの) is actually woven and finished in Italy - not Japan as its name may imply. Moreover, whether this is actually a denim shall remain a contentious issue...
 |
| Close-up showing the weave pattern of one of the Kimono fabric. |
As can be seen from the zoomed-in view above, some of the Kimono aren't in a typical twill weave. If we google the definition of denim and chambray, this is what we get:
Denim is a sturdy cotton warp-faced[1] textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. This twill weaving produces a diagonal ribbing that distinguishes it from cotton duck. Originating in India, it was known as Dungaree, before coming to be known as denim.- From Wikipedia
While chambray (below) and denim (above) are often confused for one another, they’re not exactly the same fabric. A chambray is a plain weave fabric woven with a colored yarn in the warp and a white yarn in the weft. Like chambray, denim is made with a colored yarn in the warp and white in the weft, but is woven in a twill construction. The chambray’s warp and weft threads will alternate one over the other, while denim’s warp thread will go over two threads in the weft before going under one. Typically, you will notice a lighter color to the underside of a denim fabric, whereas the underside of chambray will appear much more similar to its face side.- From online custom shirt clothier, ProperCloth.com
It seems to be clear? No! Look further down...
 |
| Kimono twill. The underside ("wrong" side) of the fabric actually looks similar to the "right" side. |
Who is Kimono?
What is Kimono?
Why am I buying Kimono?
At the end of the day, I have to admit that I was compelled to buy Kimono for two reasons:
1. It is 100% linen. It sounds cool.
Metaphorically. Those who know me know that I am a staunch supporter of cotton/ linen mix for summer, instead of whatever pure linen.
But there is one good thing about the linen fibre, as you may infer from below...
2. It is indigo dyed. It sounds even cooler.
Again, a metaphor/ insider joke only my very good self can appreciate.
Indigo plus linen sounds like the perfect combo to develop fading over time. Colour fastness for linen is a non-issue - it will bleed, for sure - and for real indigo-dyed garment, people do expect them to fade, for a whatever vintage effect they may desire.
Before we part, I shall show the wash effect on a Kimono swatch after only one washing. I washed it with a domestic washer-dryer, and ironed it lightly for photo-taking.
 |
| Upper: unwashed, lower: washed. The crease developed in the drum of the machine and got its colour scrapped off as a (desirable) result. |
And I shall end with the Shakespeare quote:
"What's in a name? that which we call a rose. By any other name would smell as sweet."
And that would conclude my view on the Kimono denim/ chambray/ whatever.
P.S. When @bamboohkg and I met Alberto, it was thought that the weight of Kimono would be suitable for making safari jackets. It turned out not to be the case. Alberto warned us and he was right.
 |
| Doesn't work for safari, I think. |
Until then, goodbye!
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