It is perhaps apt to start the @shirtingfantasy blog with a shirt-maker post. I decide to start it with my recent experience with the Turnbull & Asser (T&A) bespoke service/ trunk show at Attire House, Hong Kong.
I finished lunch a bit late. So by the time I arrived at Attire House I was already slightly late for the appointment scheduled at 5pm. That means I may not have as much time to touch the famed T&A "Sea Island Quality" fabric as much as I want.
Mr Andrew Courtney represents the British shirt house today. He mentioned casually that he has been "doing this for more than twenty years".
As with other shirt-makers, the process begins with taking measurements. For T&A overseas bespoke service it comprises roughly 15 measurements, including all the routine things like collar, sleeve length, shoulder width... and some rather esoteric ones, which required me to abduct my arm, mid-abduct my forearm and pronate my hand. Strange enough, I wasn't even required to take off my vest and was just asked (when Andrew was taking my upper chest measurement) whether I would like a tight or roomy fit. Readers have little to lose despite my failure to take pictures of the process, as it was not really that exciting.
Looking at fabric bunches is always rather more interesting and enlightening. T&A's bunches are quite big and commensurate with their prestigious status. There is a funny saying per Italian makers and Chinese blogger hearsay that the fabric bunch size - like nuclear button size - is positively correlated with the status of the shirt-maker. I will probably take measurements of bunches next time I go to shirt-makers to verify the saying.
But before @shirtingfantasy should become euphoric and order 12 "Sea Island Quality" shirts to bankrupt himself, the critical academic question was asked:
"So... Andrew... I've always been curious... where does your cotton come from... I mean... which mill..."
"The mill?"
"Yes, the mill."
At this funny juncture, Ben, the Attire House manager chipped in and helped to demystify my poor accent.
"Yeah, which fabric mill..."
"Oh I see what you mean," said the relieved Andrew, "they are from Thomas Mason."
THOMAS MASON!
THOMAS MASON!
THOMAS MASON!
My last-ditch attempt:
"So, Andrew, you mean these Sea Island Quality fabric swatches are basically JUST Egyptian cotton from Thomas Mason?"
"Indeed."
Suffice to say, @shirtingfantasy had his fantasy vanished in front of him. For the reader's information, the Thomas Mason fabric collection, from the Albini Group, is among the most widely-used mid-range fabric in Hong Kong (see here, here or even here). While part of the collection is woven from Giza 45 yarns (e.g. Hampton, Super Hampton), a lot of the collection is actually made with Giza 87 or (even) Supima cotton - whether they qualify as Sea Island Quality is really, um, not a question.
As no bespoke appointment is complete without choosing the essential (unimportant) collar and cuff styles, some eye-opening (boring) photos for the curious reader:
All in all, the bespoke appointment was a little bit underwhelming. This should at least have the positive effect of tuning my expectations, so I will not be easily disappointed shall the T&A shirts turn out to be less than perfect. Anyway, as an optimist in general, I am secretly hoping that their pattern-drafting team and seamstresses will be able to whip up some magic. The extent of the magic should be more apparent when I get the fitting shirt in a few months' time.
To brighten up the day (and the night), there's always Rota (maybe an exaggeration?), and food.
Until then, goodbye!
Shop information:
Turnbull & Asser - Trunk Show at Attire House
Mr Ben Allen (General Manager, Attire House)
4F, Duke Wellington House, 14-24 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong tel/+852 2619 9007
 |
| 5:04pm. Central is busy as usual. |
I finished lunch a bit late. So by the time I arrived at Attire House I was already slightly late for the appointment scheduled at 5pm. That means I may not have as much time to touch the famed T&A "Sea Island Quality" fabric as much as I want.
 |
| Attire House's new location at Duke Wellington House. Not a far walk from Central Station, fortunately. |
Mr Andrew Courtney represents the British shirt house today. He mentioned casually that he has been "doing this for more than twenty years".
 |
| Mr Courtney (left) and @shirtingfantasy (right) at Attire House, Central. |
As with other shirt-makers, the process begins with taking measurements. For T&A overseas bespoke service it comprises roughly 15 measurements, including all the routine things like collar, sleeve length, shoulder width... and some rather esoteric ones, which required me to abduct my arm, mid-abduct my forearm and pronate my hand. Strange enough, I wasn't even required to take off my vest and was just asked (when Andrew was taking my upper chest measurement) whether I would like a tight or roomy fit. Readers have little to lose despite my failure to take pictures of the process, as it was not really that exciting.
Looking at fabric bunches is always rather more interesting and enlightening. T&A's bunches are quite big and commensurate with their prestigious status. There is a funny saying per Italian makers and Chinese blogger hearsay that the fabric bunch size - like nuclear button size - is positively correlated with the status of the shirt-maker. I will probably take measurements of bunches next time I go to shirt-makers to verify the saying.
 | ||
| The chosen cotton. A "Sea Island Quality" twill and a Sea Island poplin. |
But before @shirtingfantasy should become euphoric and order 12 "Sea Island Quality" shirts to bankrupt himself, the critical academic question was asked:
"So... Andrew... I've always been curious... where does your cotton come from... I mean... which mill..."
"The mill?"
"Yes, the mill."
At this funny juncture, Ben, the Attire House manager chipped in and helped to demystify my poor accent.
"Yeah, which fabric mill..."
"Oh I see what you mean," said the relieved Andrew, "they are from Thomas Mason."
THOMAS MASON!
THOMAS MASON!
THOMAS MASON!
My last-ditch attempt:
"So, Andrew, you mean these Sea Island Quality fabric swatches are basically JUST Egyptian cotton from Thomas Mason?"
"Indeed."
Suffice to say, @shirtingfantasy had his fantasy vanished in front of him. For the reader's information, the Thomas Mason fabric collection, from the Albini Group, is among the most widely-used mid-range fabric in Hong Kong (see here, here or even here). While part of the collection is woven from Giza 45 yarns (e.g. Hampton, Super Hampton), a lot of the collection is actually made with Giza 87 or (even) Supima cotton - whether they qualify as Sea Island Quality is really, um, not a question.
 |
| Source: http://catalog.emilcotoni.com/quintessence/sea-island-cotton.html |
As no bespoke appointment is complete without choosing the essential (unimportant) collar and cuff styles, some eye-opening (boring) photos for the curious reader:
 |
| The classic T&A collar (leftmost) an cuff (bottom). The more pleasant-looking Regent collar is on the far right (not completely in view). |
 |
| Some rather old-school point collars, likely suitable for face and neck proportions uncommonly seen. Some more cuff options. |
All in all, the bespoke appointment was a little bit underwhelming. This should at least have the positive effect of tuning my expectations, so I will not be easily disappointed shall the T&A shirts turn out to be less than perfect. Anyway, as an optimist in general, I am secretly hoping that their pattern-drafting team and seamstresses will be able to whip up some magic. The extent of the magic should be more apparent when I get the fitting shirt in a few months' time.
To brighten up the day (and the night), there's always Rota (maybe an exaggeration?), and food.
 |
| The shirt in the background isn't mine. Arnold of Attire House was trying to confirm with me my pants' fabric choice before he sends the order to Italy so I got this lovely photo for reference. |
 |
| Dinner with wife, which always is good. |
Until then, goodbye!
Shop information:
Turnbull & Asser - Trunk Show at Attire House
Minimum order: two shirts (first order), no restriction thereafter
Price range: HKD 2900+/shirt for Egyptian cotton, HKD 3600/shirt for "Sea Island Quality" and HKD 4500 for genuine West Indian Sea Island cotton
CMT service: Not available during trunk show
Handmade option: Not availablePrice range: HKD 2900+/shirt for Egyptian cotton, HKD 3600/shirt for "Sea Island Quality" and HKD 4500 for genuine West Indian Sea Island cotton
CMT service: Not available during trunk show
Mr Ben Allen (General Manager, Attire House)
4F, Duke Wellington House, 14-24 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong tel/+852 2619 9007
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